After the final coat of oil is cured, which may take up to a week depending on the climatic conditions, burnish the surface by rubbing vigorously with a clean soft cloth or lamb's wool to finish.
An interesting patination can be produced by cutting back with "0000" steel wool, used dry and frequently turned. Burnish vigorously as before with enough pressure to cause friction and thus heat.
Leave the surface as is, or apply wax for more gloss. (Note that the higher the gloss achieved, the more visible any defects will be, so if the finish is too shiny cut back as described above until you are happy with the result.)
Chinese Wood Oil dries by oxidation, the combining with atmospheric oxygen to form a hard polymer. During this reaction heat can be produced.
If sufficient materials are present in an enclosed space (E.g.. a pile of oily rags) spontaneous combustion can result.
DO NOT STORE OIL RAGS AND OTHER MATERIALS IN YOUR BUILDING - DISPOSE OF ALL USED MATERIALS CAREFULLY AND DO NOT ALLOW A BUILD UP TO OCCUR.
The likelihood of fire is low, but should be taken seriously. A full container of oil allows little room for oxygen, but a partially empty one may allow enough to remain to gel the contents, so do not permit a large air space to remain in the container. (An old tradesman's trick is to put marbles in the jar to take up the air space and keep the jar full as material is used).
KEEP THE LID CLOSED! A smear of Vaseline on the top and thread of the bottle can not only help seal the bottle with less pressure, but also helps with undoing it later!